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do anything?
We average your runs, flag the bad ones, and show the math.
A real recorded pull, not your car.Or get a 30-second estimate
WHAT I HOLD MYSELF TO
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DYNOMIATA PRO
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Your runs are yours. Every CSV you upload stays on your device. See the five rules I hold myself to
Did your mod actually
do anything?
Drop in an OBD log and get an averaged power curve with the bad runs flagged.
Step 2 · Confirm Your Car
Defaults below are pre-filled for a stock NC Miata. Looks right? Tap Run Analysis at the bottom. Only adjust if your car differs.
Step 1 · Upload Your Log
Drop your OBD log here
or tap to browse
BlueDriver · OBD Fusion · Torque ProHow It Works
Capture
Use any OBD scanner (BlueDriver, OBD Fusion, Torque Pro) to log your run.
Analyze
Road load physics calculates wheel HP from acceleration, mass, aero drag, rolling resistance. SAE J1349 atmospheric correction.
Compare
Run quality scoring rejects bad data. Multi-run averaging reduces noise. Stock reference shows where you land.
Required PIDs
Time · RPM · Vehicle Speed · Throttle PositionHow to Get Good Data
How to Do a Clean Run
- Warmup. Drive 10-15 min before logging.
- Use 3rd gear. The pull lasts long enough for a slow adapter to sample the curve, and tops out around 80 mph. Skip 2nd (over too fast to log well) and 4th (redline near 100 mph).
- Roll at 2,000 RPM in 3rd, start logging.
- Floor it. No rolling into throttle.
- Hold to 7,100 RPM. Peak is at 6,700-7,000.
- Lift and coast 3 seconds before braking.
- Do it 3 or more times in 3rd gear. The tool pools the pulls so the run-to-run noise averages out, and the number sharpens with each one. A couple in each direction also cancels any slight grade or wind.
What to Avoid
- No shifting mid-run. Start in one gear and hold it to redline.
- No hills. A 1 percent grade can add or remove 5 wheel horsepower.
- No headwind. 10 mph headwind costs real power.
- No wet roads. Below 40°F or wet = traction loss.
- No traffic. Wait for fully clear road.
- No passengers. Solo runs only.
Safety Check
3rd gear tops out around 80 mph: long enough for a slow adapter to sample the curve, well short of the 100 mph that 4th gear would need to reach redline. Use a closed course or private property only. Don't drop to 2nd (the pull is over too fast to log well) or reach for 4th (redline lands near 100 mph).Tap runs to include them. The tool averages your selection into one number, so 3 or more pulls in the same gear give the most trustworthy result. Each pull you add tightens it.
Your file needs Time, RPM, Vehicle Speed, and Throttle Position.
Power Curve
How this compares to real published dynos sanity check
Real, cited dyno pulls of comparable stock Miatas. Dyno brands disagree: a Dyno Dynamics or Mustang reads roughly 10 to 15% below a Dynojet, and a Dynapack hub dyno reads about the same or higher. The brand is labeled on every row, and there is no single correct wheel number. A healthy car lands inside this spread; your result targets a Dynojet-style number.
NC2 and NC3 share the NC1 engine, and ND3 shares the ND2 engine, so those use the same-engine pull as a proxy. Numbers are the published figures as run, brand-labeled, not adjusted between dynos. Public data is limited for some generations, so treat the table as context, not a target.
What's actually happening with the wear? 5-minute read
An old engine loses power in seven specific places. Most can be put back with regular service. Two can't: the friction floor and combustion sealing are the wear you can't undo.
Piston rings and valves seal less tightly over hundreds of thousands of heat cycles. Combustion gas slips past instead of pushing the piston, so peak power softens. The NC's MZR engine is specifically known for the oil control rings sticking with carbon. Regular oil changes are the prevention; once damage is done, it's rebuild territory.
The timing chain stretches over time and the cam-timing system gets sluggish from old oil residue. The NC's peak power happens in a narrow band between 5,000 and 7,000 RPM, so even a few degrees of timing drift softens that whole upper band. Chain replacement and cleaning the cam-timing solenoid bring it back.
Spark plug electrodes wear down and the gap widens, so the coil packs have to work harder to fire each cylinder. Under high-RPM load there isn't enough time to build full spark voltage, and the engine misfires here and there. Each partial misfire is power gone. Fresh plugs and coils get it back.
Over 100,000 heat cycles the injector tips harden and varnish builds up, changing the fuel spray pattern. Each cylinder ends up with a slightly different air-fuel mix, and the engine's computer pulls timing on the lean ones. A fuel-pressure regulator that's stiffened can also sag rail pressure right when you need peak power. Injector cleaning or replacement fixes most of it.
Carbon builds up on the throttle body and the airflow sensor gets coated with oil mist over time. The sensor reads less air than the engine is actually getting, so the computer runs slightly lean across the board. A throttle body clean and an MAF sensor wipe are both cheap and noticeable.
The catalytic converter slowly breaks down inside, which raises backpressure. The engine's computer notices and pulls power on purpose to keep the cat from overheating. The oxygen sensors that report back to the computer also get lazy after 60,000 to 80,000 miles. A high-flow cat and fresh O2 sensors are one of the bigger recoverable wins on a high-mileage NC.
Bearings inside the engine wear smoother but lose film thickness. The oil pump wears, so peak oil pressure drops at high RPM. None of this is dramatic on its own, but it adds up to a small parasitic loss that you can't service away short of a rebuild. This is the floor the mileage deduction won't go below.
A well-maintained NC at 100,000 miles can dyno close to a fresh one after a plug, coil, MAF, throttle, and cat service. The mileage percentage you see is the minimum expected loss, not the worst-case neglected-engine number.
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